A Trip to Izumo by Sunrise Express #4 (28/Oct/2019-29/Oct/2019) ~ Kumano Taisha Shrine...
先にも説明したけれど、サンライズが１０時に出雲市駅に到着したので時間あまりない。レンタカーも６時間で借りたので夕刻の５時までには返却をしなければならない。だから、神社を３社巡りたかったところを、２社に削るしかなかった。
As I already explained in my previous post, Sunrise Express arrived at Izumo-shi Station at 10 in the morning. And I already didn't have much time then because I was supposed to return a rental car by 5 in the evening. That's why I gave up one shrine from the 3 shrines that I wanted to visit.
Izumo is an important place for my quest in history, and I already know that I'm coming back here soon, but I wanted to visit Kumano Taisha Shrine and Izumo Taisha Shrine this time.
荒神谷遺跡から引き続き出雲ロマン街道を進みながら４０分程車を走らせ、お昼前には何とか着くことができた。出雲国には２社、一之宮がある。その一つが熊野大社だ。ここは出雲王国建国の祖・素戔嗚命が祀られている。元宮は熊野山（天狗山）の頂にあり、古代の斎場が素戔嗚命の神陵とされている。
After Koujindani Ruins, I kept driving on Izumo Romantic Road for about 40 min, and arrived at "Kumano Taisha Shrine" by noon. In Izumo, there are two "Ichinomiya" Shrines, and "Kumano Taisha Shrine" is one of them where the God "Susanoo" who was allegedly said to be the founder of "The kingdom of Izumo" is enshrined. The original shrine was located on the top of the mountain called "Kumano-san" (Currently "Tengu-san"), and there is an ancient ritual ceremony place where is said to be the tomb of the God "Susanoo".
On the 4th Sunday in May, the shrine holds an annual ritual ceremony in the mountain. Since the mountain is not so high of about 610m, I wish I could visit there sometime soon.
出雲王国が崩壊した後、出雲族の人々は素戔嗚命を首長霊として祀ることで国の動揺を抑えようとした。そして、７１６年に杵築神社（現：出雲大社）が完成すると、国造を含め官職にあたる人々はその地へ移住していったそうだ。彼ら出雲族にとって最高神であるのは、出雲王国の建国の祖・素戔嗚命であだったはずが、ここで意図的に大己貴命（大国主命）に変わった。
古事記の国譲りの話には、大国主命が天照大神への国譲りをする代わりに、立派な宮を建てる条件を取り付けたことになっている。しかし、その宮というのが杵築神社で、この話の真実はこの事実のすり替え話なんだろう。
After the kingdom was collapsed, the tribes of Izumo tried to control an upset by worshiping the spirit of the kingdom founder "Susanoo". After "Kizuchi Shrine" (Currently "Izumo Taisha Shrine") was founded in 716, the ancient government officers of Izumo, "Izumo Kuni no Miyatuko" moved there. For the tribes of Izumo, the supreme God was of course "Susanoo". However it was intentionally changed to "Oonamuchi" (commonly "Ookuninushi") then.
In the story of "Kojiki", the God "Ookuninushi" accepted to hand over Izumo to the Goddess "Amaterasu" regime under the condition that he was allowed to build a palace. However that palace must be "Kizuki Shrine", and this story was created to hide the truth.
拝殿で参拝を済ませて、社務所に朱印をもらいに行く。この日は、出雲に到着をしてからは天気は快晴に変わった。境内で過ごしていても、とても清々しい気持ちにさせてくれる。
素戔嗚命は荒ぶる神と称される。それは、古事記の八岐大蛇退治の猛々しさ、そして天の岩戸事件のきっかけを作った粗暴さからだ。しかし、そんな荒ぶる神が坐す神社とは思えないほど、穏やかな感じが常にしていたと思う。
After I prayed at the shrine alter, I went to the shrine office to get a shrine stamp. It was a perfect sunny day after arriving in Izumo, and I was feeling refreshed spending some time in the shrine.
The God "Susanoo" is normally referred to be a rough deity. That's because of his legendary termination against a 8-headed and 8-tailed dragon, and also of his rude attitudes toward the Goddess "Amaterasu" which caused "Ameno Iwato" incident. However the atmosphere inside the shrine was completely opposite to those stories.
境内の傍らに石碑があった。そこには素戔嗚命が詠んだという日本で最初の和歌が記されていた。
At the side of the shrine, there was a stone monument which one of the oldest Japanese poem, "Waka" composed by "Susanoo" is engraved.
八雲立つ 出雲八重垣 妻籠めに 八重垣作る その八重垣を
Yakumotatu Izumoyaegaki Tsumagomeni Yaegakitukuru Sonoyaegakiwo
"幾重にも沸き立つ雲。それが幾重の垣根のようであり、その幾重の垣根を妻の宮の為に作っている"。そんな現代訳が一般的のようだ。しかし、この和歌の解釈にも、いろいろと説がある。何かしら、謎があるみたいだが、今はそれに気を配る余裕がない。
"Layered clouds looks like layered hedges. And I create the layered hedges in my wife's palace". This translation in modern language seems to be commonly seen. However the comprehension varies. Though there seems to be something mystery in the poem, but I'm not focusing on it now, anyway.
そうこうしている内に、朱印が書きあがっていた。また、改めてこの熊野大社に訪れたいと思う。まだまだ、理解していないことが多すぎるから・・・。
正美
A while later, the shrine stamp was ready. I really want to come back to this shine again because I still have many things that I don't understand yet...
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